Aquest dissabte en Soepe i jo hem anat a Vilanova de Meià a fer la Taca de Romesco, el dia es lleva amb bastant de vent i mentre fem material ens fa pensar que potser no es podrà escalar en gaires bones condicions però un cop som a peu de via el vent no hi toca i a més el sol comença a escalfar.
La ressenya
La via comença amb una placa vertical amb el mitic pas de monodit i on els peus són molt finets, un cop passat el pas continua per placa anant flanquejant cap a la dreta a buscar el sostre ratllat on comença el desplom amb bastant de canto.
El segon llarg (6c) comença amb unes panxes, on hi ha unes aixecades bastant dures amb mans romesi llavors un flanqueix delicat i una placa que et du a una zona desplomada amb bones preses, les tipiques fisures hoitzontals, i d'aguantar-li.
El tercer llarg (6b) tot de desplom amb bona presa.
En Soepe al tercer llarg (6b)
El quart llarg (6a) comença amb un sostre amb bona presa de mans però sense peus,a partir d'aqui aguantar el desplom uns metres mes i llavors un flanqueig cap a la dreta per una zona més trencada i sense asegurances tot i que el vaig protegir amb el camalot 0,50, llavors trops una baga en una sabina de la Cabaret Galactic, un flanqueig per anar a buscar un spit i una aixecada per arribar a R que estroba just sota el sostre.
L'ultim llarg comença amb un sostre amb bona presa, un pasrell de panxetes més despres uns metres sense equipament però de bon protegir fins arribar a la feixa.
Seqüència de la sortida de l'últim llarg (6a+)Una molt bona via, molt continuada i amb les assegurances justes on has d'escalar entre xapa i xapa. En la qual has de tenir molta pila i el 6b de desplom assimilat.
Ens va deixar un molt bon gust de boca i segurament la millor via feta fins ara a Vilanova.
109 comentaris:
Ostres bows, ja us he trobat! Fa dies que no pieu eh?
Res tu, gracie pel dissabt, per deixar-me fer la via i tal.
Ens veiem !!!!
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