diumenge, 18 de setembre del 2011

Pany-Ferrera Electric Ladyland 300mt 7a+/A1 (V+obl.)


Aquest dissabte després d'una nit de festa pel MMVV'11 ens n'anem cap a Sta. Cecilia, en Soepe i jo em quedat amb en Carles que ve directament de Banyoles per anar a fer l'Electric Ladyland.

 Ressenya

Fa bastanta calor i el sol no hi deixarà de tocar fins al voltants de les 2, no hi ha pressa.
Fem l'aproximació amb una xafogor impressionant i arribem a peu de via, no hi ha ningú, solament una cordada a la Easy i una altra a la Gesam, preparem les coses.
Comença en Soepe, li toca fer tota la Pany-Ferrera que segueix una canal plena de vegetació, bastant bruta i polsosa, sort que s'escala per la placa i en el diedre t'hi possen ben poquet.
El segon llarg potser és el millor comença amb una xemeneia i llavors vas cap a la placa, els passos estan protegits amb parabolts però la resta te l'has d'anar equipant.
Nosaltres portem el joc d'aliens, el joc de Camalots fins al 4 i el joc de tascons.
Arribem a Plaça catalunya i llavors em toquen a mi els tres primers llargs de l'Electric Ladyland.
 Els dos primers de diedre continuat amb trossos molt bruts i una arribada a reunió bastant fineta, comença bastant ben equipada però com més amunt pujo només trobo claus en bastant mal estat però es protegeix bé.

 Primer llarg de l'Electric Ladyland

El segon segueix la tendència, solament una secció arribant a reunió de 6b molt fina de peus que soluciono amb A0.
El tercer és el llarg de sostre de 7a+, no porto estreps, però es passa bé amb algun A1 dels Aliens. La reunió és molt incòmode i com fem canvi de cap de cordada i passo molta estona, al final em fa mal tot.
Aqui li toca a en Carles, ara ve el llarg de la bavaresa, comença amb una secció de 7b/Ae de flanqueig cap a la dreta per agafar la bavaresa, una laja molt fina que sembla que hagi de baixar en qualsevol moment, no és dificil, però s'ha d'anar amb cura de que no es trenqui ja que hi ha alguna secció bastant descomposta. Despres flanqueges a l'esquerra 6c/A0 per anar a buscar la R, sobretot no seguir la fissura fins una altra reunió que hi ha més amunt.

En Carles a la bavaresa

 En Nacho a la Bavaresa

El penúltim llarg és una placa molt vertical, ben equipada, al principi la roca no et dona molta seguretat pero va sortint 6a.
I l'ultim un flanqueig ca a l'esquerra de III i una canal.

 En Soepe al penúltim llarg

A més del material que vàrem dur, recomano portar alguna xapa recuperable i cordinillo ja que hi ha algun clau en mal estat i caps de burí on hi vam escanyar els fissurers.

En definitiva una bona via, llàstima que estigui tan bruta, on vibres en els diedres els trossos desaquipats, on el llarg de xemeneia de la Pany-Ferrera, la Bavaresa de l'Electric Ladyland i la verticalitat et deixen un bon gust de boca.


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